Sometimes, almost a year goes by then you finally get around to doing the things you set out to do long ago.
That’s me at the moment — can anyone else relate?
The last 2 parts of PACIFIC DRIFT that I got to create with model Malia Murphey + Billabong Women’s got sent into the archives so I’m bringing them out for some fresh air!
This trip in particular was a quick island hop away to Hawai’i Island (commonly known as Big Island). Hope you enjoy a few 35mm snaps from our time there just before the volcanic eruptions …
Winter looks a bit different here in the islands …
but we’ve been getting some rain …
LIFE IS GUUD.
October seems to hold a bit of magic in her pocket. Maybe it’s that dead wind that keeps the salty air lingering til sun down … I have fond memories of October sunsets and surfs.
All of these dreamy colors
— unspoken words of dependency
notes of smoke in the air
limitless potential as a new season approaches
— but conflicting dark undertones try to get in the way
I love this month.
( shot with canon 5d mark iv / sigma 100-500mm )
Sometimes sunny days are hard to come by during Hawaiian winters, but when the sun decides to show its face, best believe we are making the most of those moments!
Halloween 2017 stands out in my mind for a day full of fun surf with all the crew ending up in the water serendipitously . . . the sunrise was out of this world, and the sunset put on a show for us too . . . it'll definitely go down in my memory bank as a day I'll never forget.
And although I got to enjoy a surf in the evening with my friends, I'm so happy I took out the housing for the sandbar session earlier that afternoon. Here are some snaps of happy campers enjoying the calm before the storm :)
I can't believe it's been a year since I got to play with my sis Hanalei Reponty for her amazing geoprene / activewear / bikini brand: ABYSSE OFFICIAL . . .
Be sure to give them a follow on Instagram: @abysseofficial
The photography of Jeff Divine has got me feeling a kind of way . . .
Maybe because I wish I was alive + shooting in the sixties and seventies, or because he was so great at capturing the raw and candid moments in surf culture, or possibly because film is my favorite thing in the world.
I think about what it would have been like to be in the mix like this . . .
I just love it so much.
If you are a surfer (or love surfing), you have to pick up his book, SURFING PHOTOGRAPHS FROM THE SEVENTIES TAKEN by JEFF DIVINE !
What is it about traveling that heightens your senses? Expands your gratitude? Makes you more open to spontaneity, susceptible to being social, awake to what's possible?
I can't quite put my finger on it, but I'm addicted to the journey. I often travel for work, to follow people around shooting photos, and while I'm there I can't help but be completely immersed in the moment. Maybe it's because I don't want to miss a thing ...
One word to sum up my time at CEYLON SLIDERS?
... ICED COFFEE.
... and surf. and food. and more iced coffee. and more surf + food.
I believe that Sri Lanka -- and even further, Maldives -- is the farthest I could possibly travel away from my home base in Hawai'i. Three airplanes and a 3 hour bus ride later we landed at Ceylon Sliders, a quaint boutique hotel with 5 adorable rooms right across the street from the Indian Ocean. From one island to another, I felt very at home being surrounded by the ocean and found comfort in surfing with familiar faces. The team at Ceylon Sliders / Sunshine Stories (a sister company that offers yoga and surf retreats) inspired me in more ways than they'll ever know. Their hospitality was beautiful and they showed us such a wonderful time in Sri Lanka that included mostly food, art, surf, and wild tuk tuk rides!
Alana Spencer is someone that should be on your radar.
I've known her since she was just a tiny 12-year-old surfer grom, but she's always carried herself different than the rest. She's grown into such a beautifully calm, gracious, and gifted woman and it's always exciting to see what kind of projects she's diving into.
It was a pleasure taking her pic as she made time for me in her busy schedule right before flying out to the Gold Coast of Australia. Having self-employed friends who travel all over the world for work is so inspiring; but it's always the best when we get to catch up on life in our favorite place on earth, HOME.
Follow her on IG: @coconutcomradery